November 19 – Whitebait

          The signs announced “Whitebait,” at restaurants and “whitebait season” at sporting goods stores.  The excitement was obvious.  It left me perplexed.  What is whitebait and what am I missing?

            After some investigation, I learned that Whitebait is not a type of fish per se.  It is any fry fish (juvenile) that happens to be swimming by.  For the French and Italians, that may mean tiny silver fish like anchovy or sardines.  Whitebait for the British is sprats, a small silver fish.  So, for Europe, think tiny silver fish that are fried and then eaten whole as an appetizer, and washed down with wine or beer like so:

           

 In New Zealand, whitebait is not the small silvery fish.  Here whitebait is the juvenile of any fish in the Galaxiidae family. The juveniles, (they look like larvae to me) are translucent and kind of icky. But fishing for them is a New Zealand cultural tradition and they are considered a delicacy.  

Walking on the beach one day, we ran across some folks fishing for whitebait.  This is what they were catching:

All I could focus on was those eyes. Ugh.

            Yikes!  That did not look appetizing and worse, how much work does it take to catch a meal?  Turns out, it can take a lot of work. Whitebait are returning from the sea in large schools. They are caught using a large net.  Some people take large pole nets and drag them through the surf to sieve up the fish.  Other use box nets, shaped something like a soccer net but much smaller, situated across a stream or in an area with a current. The juveniles are swept into the net as they head upstream.  I have provided a few links if you want to get a sense of how this works.  

Go to:  https://fishingmag.co.nz/whitebaiting/how-to-catch-whitebait-an-easy-beginners-guide-with-allan-burgess

Or to:  https://www.fishing.net.nz/fishing-advice/how-to/whitebaiting-tips-and-techniques/

            The season lasts two months, and a lot of people are ecstatic when it arrives. Obviously, there has to be a trick to eating them since they are so small.  Usually, they are turned it into whitebait fritters.  Some people have a tendency to swoon when they talk about these fritters.  Other Kiwis do not understand the fuss.  Matt and I will eat just about anything so we had to try whitebait fritters to make up our own minds—swoon or meh?

            Here is what we were served.  

See the little fishies?

          

  Honestly, it was kind of tasteless.  There was some vague fish flavor but mostly I tasted egg batter from the fritter, which really was more like an omelet.  The good news is that it did not feel like I was eating worms.  The cooking soften them to the point that they just melted.  Even so, I don’t think we will be joining the mad rush for whitebait fritters when the next season comes.  

November 11 – Fishing

Fishing the Hutt River in Lower Hutt

            

            I previously wrote about the prohibition on buying and selling trout in New Zealand.  The only way for me to have trout for dinner is to catch it myself.  So, for my birthday, Matt hired a fishing guide to take us out in pursuit of the cagey brown trout.  

            I would not say I am an avid fisherman.  My idea of fishing is to hire a guide who provides the equipment and takes me to a place to fish.  He/she hands me a rod ready to go, points and says fish there.  My hope was that by hiring a guide, we could at least get the feel of fishing for trout.  And we made clear to the guide that fly fishing was not in the cards.  I have to catch a trout by using a lure such as a spinner, or nothing.  

            Because he was not local, we agreed to meet halfway, which put us in Upper Hutt, to the north and east of Wellington.  His idea was for us to fish the Hutt River.  Sounded fine to me. What do I know?  He’s the guide.  He brought both rod and reel and fly-fishing gear.  He wanted me to at least try fly-fishing.  But we started with a regular fishing rod.  

            The guide, James, reminded me how to use a fishing rod.  Seriously, I have not done this for years.  Paranoid after the sand fly attack, I put on fingerless gloves to prevent bites on my hands.  On my first cast, my gloves were so slippery, the rod flew out of my hands and into the river.  A lot of laughter but no panic.  I waded in and retrieved it.  Then I removed the gloves.  

            The guide kept pointing at shadows he said were trout.  He urged me to cast near the shadow.  God knows I tried.  He even tried.  No luck.  So we moved on to the Lower Hutt, closer to Wellington.  Even though we were in a suburb, the river was crystal clear and once again, we could see the fish.  But they absolutely refused to take us up on any of our bait.  

            At this point, frustrated at our inability to catch a fish, the guide pulled out his fly-fishing rod.  He showed me how to cast.  I wasn’t very good at it but worse, I wasn’t interested in it.  If you can think of a hard way to catch a fish, fly fishing would be it.  Fly fishing is a belief that you can outsmart a trout by sneaking up on it.  It struck me that this is a guy thing.  Only a man could come up with such an inefficient way to catch a fish.  There is a technique to learn, flies to tie and waters to wade.  It’s a whole world devoted to trying to catch a fish by pretending to be a fly on the water.  There has got to be an easier way!  I am in this for a meal, not a trophy.  I will stick to spinners thanks.  

            Regardless of the type of gear, the entire day was a bust.  The fish simply were not biting.  No trout for my birthday dinner.  

            But we were not deterred.  Having had a refresher on how to fish, (at least I needed it), we agreed that we would outfit ourselves with some gear and see if we could successfully fish for trout in the local rivers.  The guy selling us the equipment thought we were kind of kooky—two Americans telling him we had no clue what we needed so just tell us and we will buy it.  No, he did not take advantage of us.  In fact, he did not sell us everything we needed as we learned later on.

            A few weeks later, we headed to the Otaki River, which is very close to us.  We had been there for about an hour with nothing to show for it when I gave up.  I could not find a fish.  Matt had lost a lure and, not wanting to spend the time to tie on another hook, he asked to borrow my rod.  After a few casts, he got a bite and reeled it in.  Tada!  Lo and behold, Matt caught a rainbow trout in the Otaki River.

That is one happy guy.

            The salesman at the outdoor store forgot to sell us a fishing net, so the poor thing was flopping around on the ground.  We did buy an “immobilizer” meaning a club to hit the fish on the head and stun it.  But this fish simply did not want to be stunned.  It took a few blows.  I felt bad.  I did not like hitting it.  But a person has to do what she has to do to get a meal.  

            I cleaned it and cooked it up.  Delicious!  Finally, I had trout in New Zealand.   I should add, along the way I foraged some nasturtium to garnish the asparagus, so I guess we can call this living off the land and water.

Trout with lime a dill and roasted asparagus with nasturtium sauce and fresh flowers garnish